We have arrived!

Friday
That was a loooong flight. We left Rio at 5pm and arrived in Athens 18 1/2 hours later - 5.50pm actually, with the 6 hour time difference - having stopped in Lisbon and Frankfurt. We had a very tight connection in Frankfurt, and it was pathetic to see the two of us, not so young after all, haul ass (as Victor would say) down the endless corridors, dodging travelers, to find our gate. Luckily we made it - and our hearts survived the sudden surge.

We flew above massive snowless Balkan mountains:

and then saw the wonderfully blue Ionian sea

We could see the whitecaps on the water as our flight banked and shuddered in the wind before landing at the airport - also a huge fire going up a mountain, which carpeted the city in smoke.

The hotel had sent a driver and we sped in towards the city on flawless highways - apparently a remnant from the 2004 Olympics - thinking of the Linha Vermelha and Maré. Oh dear. How is it all going to go?

Our hotel is fabulous (AVA Suites). We have an executive suite, which means a living room w/kitchen and a bedroom. Lyden Gardens style, for those who  have that kind of NY memories. Except here, from our balcony (too hot to stay there for long) we have the Temple of Zeus to the left and the forbidding cliff of the Acropolis to the right. 

We dined just down the street at Daphne's, much lauded by Tripadvisor, our travel bible, and it was indeed lovely, spicy eggplant dip, deep-fried zucchini cubes and a mixed seafood grill. We had started with a gin and tonic (surprisingly Tuborg tonic, with a nod to Denmark) and when I asked for a glass of white wine and said I preferred Sauvignon Blanc, the unflappable waiter said he had one with that grape - and two or more Greek ones as well! The wine was just fine - he topped up my glass when he showed me the bottle and said, "Opa!"and laughed.

And then, back in our hotel room,  we crashed. I fell asleep, glasses on and iPad in hand (reading the new "Robert Galbraith" aka J.K. Rowling, really quite enjoyable, with a British 60-70s feel), and Oswaldo gently removed them and then went to sleep himself.

Saturday
I was up, humming with energy, at Greek time 8am (Rio 2am, what's wrong with me?) and decided to head out and find us some breakfast. And this is when the bummer happened. Happily walking along our street I tripped on a deep hole in the pavement and really twisted/sprained my ankle. I was so shocked that it took me a while to turn around and sit up, but I couldn't get up. A young Japanese tourist couple passed by me and I said "Help me!" They avoided my eyes and continued on. After yet another while a kiosk owner behind me came and pulled me to my feet and put me on a bench. When I asked for ice, he intelligently handed me two Pepsi cans, which I rolled sadly - the shock had put me close to tears - across my ankle. I knew this was not good. Alexandra, his assistant who spoke English, walked me back to the hotel, where we began the ice, the desinfectant for the cut knee, woke up Oswaldo, etc. etc. In other words: a massive change of plans. Dan Isaacson, distinguished Oxford philosopher on his way to our hotel, was diverted to pharmacy/orthopedic shop, which he managed to find, and bought a perfect little velcro bootie to settle my swelling ankle.

After chatting for a while we decided to hobble to a beautiful little restaurant nearby, one of the oldest taverns in Athens, Tou Psiara, where taramasalata, a grilled feta cheese and a Carlsberg did wonders for me.

Then back to the hotel for more ice and a nap, while the men went off to register at the conference and buy sim-cards. Tonight we stay in to rest - with a bottle of chilled white wine - and for Oswaldo to prepare for the opening ceremony. Perusing the program he's surprised to discover that I am listed as one of the speakers. Oh well.